Every week, I’m back behind the chair, and—yep—here we go again: “Just trim the ends!” Sure. And then, somehow, half the layers vanish, or someone’s curls get hacked up wet, as if gravity’s gonna treat a 4C coil the same as stick-straight hair. No, it doesn’t. Stuff like chopping curls wet, pretending a one-size-fits-all product lineup will work, or just ignoring the way hair actually grows? Happens constantly. Even people who’ve been doing hair for ages mess up if they’re zoning out. (That haiirology.com piece about wet vs. dry cuts—yeah, scroll it if you’re bored.)

What really gets me? Watching razor-happy stylists thin out a 3A wave and swear it’ll “add movement.” Nope, it just turns into limp spaghetti. Ever had a client trust TikTok more than your scissors? The Aveda Arts & Sciences Institute says these mistakes are sneaky—sometimes the client doesn’t even realize their hair’s been wrecked until a month later. No one ever brings up porosity or shrinkage before demanding “layers.” And, yeah, I once used a relaxer shampoo on a type 4 coil. Disaster. Never again.

If I got paid for every “just a trim” that ended up as an SOS project, I’d probably own stock in Olaplex. Some stylists spend almost half their week fixing other people’s screw-ups—not even kidding. Don’t get me started on DIY color corrections. I need coffee and a legal waiver for those.

Understanding Textured Hair and Its Unique Needs

By the first Saturday client, I already know “just a trim” means at least an hour of detangling and a rescue mission for dry ends. People think they know their hair, but… not really. Every curl, every coil, it’s got its own backstory, and autopilot just isn’t an option.

What Defines Textured Hair?

Don’t ask me to call hair “curly” like that means anything. Textured hair? That stuff zigzags, loops, bends—sometimes so tight you’re afraid to even try a comb. Textbooks blame follicle shape, but honestly, one humid day or a bad night’s sleep and the whole “science” goes out the window. I remember a buddy swore her “universal detangler” worked for everyone—until it didn’t. If you want to get technical, textured hair means you can see a wave, curl, or coil from root to tip. But hair isn’t technical, it’s moody.

Textured Hair Types: Curls, Coils, and Waves

Last Thursday, I was told to expect “sorta curly” hair. In walks a client with corkscrews tighter than my patience. These charts—wavy (type 2), curly (type 3), coily/kinky (type 4)—they’re not just numbers. Some people have three different patterns on one head. Waves (Type 2) get flat if you sneeze too much product on them. Curls (Type 3)? Don’t brush them dry unless you want a poodle. Coils (Type 4) need conditioner, patience, and a gentle hand—never a metal pick. The science is all about follicle shape, supposedly, but real life? It’s about what works today, not last week. Here’s the “official” guide, but honestly, I just go by what I see.

Natural Dryness and the Importance of Moisture

Here’s a stat I half-remember: curly hair loses moisture way faster than straight. Feels true, because I’m always deep conditioning someone. Coils? Forget scalp oils making it to the ends. Every curly kid has a spray bottle for a reason. Water alone? Not enough. You can’t just grab any shampoo—sulfate-free is the bare minimum. Stylists and dermatologists both say: hydration or bust. At a trade show, a celebrity stylist whispered, “Mix leave-in conditioner and water for a refresh.” Cheaper, works better than half the “curl sprays” out there. Skipping moisture? Rookie move. Hydration products aren’t optional—they’re the only way you make it through winter, or even a bad beach day.

Common Mistakes Stylists See With Textured Hair

Honestly, I never plan to have someone yanking on my head for twenty minutes, acting like they’ve just discovered curls. But here we are. Mess up textured hair, and clients blame their own genetics instead of the bad cut.

Misdiagnosing Hair Texture

Stylists act like “textured” is a single thing. It’s not. The chart doesn’t care if you’re 3A, 4C, or somewhere in between. Met a woman last week—frizz everywhere, and her last stylist called it “just wavy” then razored it to death. Now her hair’s rougher than her toddler’s. Hairstyletalk.com says stylists ruin cuts just by misreading texture. And texture? It changes. Humidity, wrong shampoo, even towel-drying too hard. I keep an old texture chart in my drawer. Some stylists think that’s outdated. I’d make them live with curls for a week and see how they feel.

Inappropriate Product Choices

How many times do I see someone slap on a heavy silicone cream to “fix” low-porosity coils? Helmet hair, every time. Or clients scrubbing with clarifying shampoo three times a week because TikTok says so—bye-bye color. Buzzfeed’s stylist lists always push salon products, but most people still buy whatever’s on sale. Wrong product, wrong outcome. Curls and coils (4A-4C)? They want water-based leave-ins, barely any sulfates, and definitely not oil-heavy serums unless it’s a humidity apocalypse. I tell clients: if “dimethicone” is first on the label, run. Some people think mousse will fix every curl. Nope. Some need gel, some need air, some just need you to stop blowdrying them into a triangle. Ask any stylist who’s seen it all.

Over-Thinning and Improper Cutting

Thinning shears haunt me. Stylists use them like salad tongs, then act surprised when the client’s hair goes full chia pet. Real Simple says bad cuts mean split ends and weird volume, but I don’t think people realize one mistake on curls can set you back six months. No, there’s no redo button. Sometimes, clients come to me after three failed stylists. Their layers are so thin it’s basically hay. If the ends look stringy or curls stop at the root, someone got scissor-happy. And then the “fix” is a pineapple bun or scarf. Someone once told me dry cutting was a fad. But cutting dry, especially with curls, keeps you honest. Wet hair lies. Dry hair tells the truth.

So when someone sits down, I grab the wide-tooth comb, and I avoid thinning shears like they’re cursed. If stylists keep blaming texture instead of their own technique, I’m handing out Worst Layer Awards.